Brow Shade Mismatch: How to Avoid Purple and Green Tones

Choosing the right shade when coloring or tinting eyebrows is essential for achieving a natural, harmonious, and aesthetically pleasing look. At MONLIS School Munich, students learn why incorrect pigment combinations can lead to unwanted tones such as purple, green, red, or grey — and how to prevent these effects through proper technique and color theory.

Unwanted shade shifts never happen “by accident.” They are the result of chemical interactions, incorrect mixing, previous color residues, or misunderstanding the client’s undertone. This detailed guide explains how to avoid such issues and how professionals ensure predictable and stable results.

Why Purple or Green Tones Appear in Eyebrow Tinting

Shade incompatibility occurs more often than many expect. It can show up in classic tinting, hybrid coloring, henna brows, or any treatment involving pigments. The most common reasons include:

1. Incorrect Pigment Mixing

Each pigment is built from base colors. If the color theory is misunderstood, the mixture may turn into an unintended shade:

• Too much blue + red → purple

• Too much yellow + blue → green

This is why professional training in brow colorimetry is essential.

2. Color Residues from Previous Tinting

Old pigments absorbed into the skin can interact with fresh tint. When the new color blends with these residues, a cooler or greenish cast may appear.

3. Wrong Assessment of the Client’s Skin Undertone

Different undertones affect how a pigment develops:

• Olive skin often pulls color into green

• Very cool skin tones can cause purple, bluish, or grey effects

Understanding undertones is one of the most important skills taught at MONLIS School.

4. Overprocessing or Excessive Concentration

If the tint develops too long or is applied too heavily, it may oxidize differently, resulting in unexpected cool tones.

How Professionals Avoid Unwanted Color Shifts

At MONLIS School Munich, students receive in-depth training in color theory, pigment behavior, and corrective techniques. The following methods help prevent purple and green tones:

1. Accurate Undertone Analysis

Before choosing a pigment, stylists learn to analyze whether the skin is:

• warm

• neutral

• cool

• olive

This determines how the tint will oxidize and influences pigment selection.

2. Use of Correctors and Modifiers

Correctors help neutralize unwanted undertones:

• Red/Orange corrects greenish or ashy tendencies

• Yellow warms up overly cool pigments

• Warm modifiers balance out olive or greyish effects

These adjustments are essential for achieving natural results.

3. Monitoring the Oxidation Process

Tint development changes minute by minute. Professionals check the color during the process and stop development at the right time to avoid overcooling.

4. Proper Skin Preparation

Clean, oil-free skin ensures even color absorption and prevents patchiness or tonal shifts.

5. Working with High-Quality Pigments

Premium pigments have stable color bases and predictable behavior. At MONLIS School, students learn how to evaluate pigment quality and choose reliable formulas.

If an Unwanted Tone Already Appeared

Even with careful planning, a color correction may sometimes be needed. Professional methods include:

1. Color Neutralization

Applying a corrector pigment directly neutralizes the unwanted tone:

• Green → neutralize with Red/Orange

• Purple → neutralize with Yellow/Golden tones

This restores balance without making the brows too dark.

2. Gentle Pigment Lightening

A remover can be used to reduce older pigment before re-tinting.

3. Step-by-Step Correction

Severe shade shifts often require multiple light, careful treatments rather than one strong correction.

Why Training at MONLIS School Munich Matters

Most color mistakes occur when stylists work without proper knowledge of pigment behavior. At MONLIS School Munich, the curriculum includes:

• advanced color theory

• skin and hair analysis

• correct pigment combinations

• use of modifiers and correctors

• professional tinting methodology

• techniques for safe and precise application

With this training, future brow artists produce stable, harmonious, and natural-looking results without the risk of purple, green, or ashy tones.

Correct brow tinting is not guesswork — it is a precise technique based on color theory, skin analysis, and professional product knowledge. Unwanted undertones such as purple or green are easy to avoid when stylists understand pigment composition and oxidation.
The MONLIS School Munich provides comprehensive, practical training that helps professionals achieve flawless, natural brow shades safely and consistently.