Choosing the Right Lash Curl: Balancing Anatomy and Style

When it comes to eyelash extensions, it's not just the length that defines the look — the curl type is equally important. The curl determines how open, natural, or dramatic the eyes appear. Selecting the right curl should never be random. At the MONLIS School in Munich, future lash stylists are trained to assess each client's anatomy and aesthetic preferences to create a safe, flattering, and lasting result.

Why Is Curl Selection So Important?

The curl affects how the lash extensions lift off the lid and the direction in which they point. A softer curl creates a natural appearance, while a stronger curl adds depth, drama, and a lifting effect to the eye. Choosing the wrong curl can lead to an unbalanced or artificial look and may even cause discomfort. The right curl, however, brings facial features into harmony and enhances the overall expression.

What Factors Determine the Right Curl?

Eye Shape

The overall eye shape — whether almond, round, deep-set, or prominent — strongly influences which curl is most flattering. Deep-set eyes benefit from stronger curls like CC or D, which visually lift the lashes. In contrast, softer curls often suit prominent eyes better for a more balanced look.

Eyelid Type

Hooded eyes require curls that lift the lashes above the eyelid fold. L curls and strong CC curls are particularly effective here. If the eyelid is fully visible, a classic C curl is often enough to open the gaze.

Natural Lash Growth Direction

If the natural lashes grow straight or downward, a more pronounced curl (like CC or D) can help achieve a lifted appearance. If lashes naturally grow upward, a softer curl may already provide a beautiful result.

Strength and Length of Natural Lashes

Stronger curls usually mean shorter extensions to maintain the bend. If the client’s natural lashes are fine or short, using a strong curl may cause too much strain. In such cases, it’s better to opt for a softer curl and adjust the thickness accordingly.

Desired Styling Effect

Does the client want a subtle, everyday look or a bold, expressive one? The curl greatly affects the final style. The lash artist must always consider the client’s personality, lifestyle, and desired image when choosing the curl.

How MONLIS School Teaches Curl Selection with Precision

At MONLIS School in Munich, students don’t just learn application techniques — they develop the ability to consult and customize. Within the lash mapping curriculum, students are taught to:

• analyze eye and lid anatomy

• combine curl, length, and density effectively

• personalize lash designs for any client

• avoid common mistakes through structured practice

The training includes detailed theory and guided hands-on model work, with continuous feedback from experienced instructors.

Common Mistakes in Curl Selection

Mistakes happen quickly without anatomical understanding and client assessment:
Using a strong curl on short or weak lashes may cause poor retention or an artificial appearance. Using too soft a curl on hooded eyes may result in lashes that “disappear” under the lid. Ignoring lash growth direction can lead to messy, uneven results. Failing to align with the client’s expectations can also lead to dissatisfaction.