How to Determine the Ideal Eyebrow Width – Tips from MONLIS School

Perfectly shaped eyebrows are more than just a trend — they define facial expression, frame the eyes, and give balance to the entire look. In professional brow architecture, the goal is not to copy fashionable shapes but to highlight the natural harmony between the eyes, nose, and forehead.
At MONLIS School in Munich, one of Germany’s top academies for manicure, pedicure, and beauty education, students learn how to determine the ideal width and shape of the eyebrows individually — considering facial proportions, hair growth direction, and skin type.

1. The Importance of Correct Eyebrow Width

The width of the eyebrows plays a major role in the overall facial balance. Brows that are too thin can make the face look strict or tired, while overly thick brows can appear heavy or unrefined.
A brow artist’s task is to find the perfect balance between natural fullness, face shape, and expression.
Correctly measured width ensures:

• Facial harmony: The brow shape fits perfectly with facial proportions.

• Naturalness: The client’s individual character remains visible.

• Easy maintenance: Properly shaped brows grow evenly and are simpler to correct.

2. Anatomical Reference Points

To determine the ideal eyebrow width, one must understand the anatomical structure of the face. At MONLIS School, students learn to work using three essential guide lines:

2.1 The Starting Line

This line begins at the inner edge of the nostril and runs vertically upward. It marks the beginning of the brow.
If the brows start too far apart, the face may appear wider; if they are too close, the expression can look tense or severe.

2.2 The Arch Line (Apex)

Drawn diagonally from the side of the nose through the center of the pupil to the highest point of the brow, this determines the lift and expression of the look.
Here, the brow should not be too thick — otherwise, the eye area loses lightness.

2.3 The End Line

This line runs from the nostril to the outer corner of the eye, showing where the brow should end.
If it’s too short, the eyes may seem smaller; if it’s too long, the expression can appear droopy.

Students at MONLIS School are trained to measure these lines precisely and adjust them to each client’s face shape.

3. Proportions and Face Shapes

Every face is unique, and the ideal eyebrow width depends largely on its proportions:

3.1 Round Face

Slightly elongated brows of medium width visually stretch the face. Very thick brows should be avoided to maintain balance.

3.2 Oval Face

The most balanced shape — allows for almost any brow width as long as the proportions between forehead and chin remain even.

3.3 Square Face

Softer, slightly thicker brows with a subtle arch help create a more feminine appearance.

3.4 Heart-Shaped Face

Brows that are too wide can emphasize the forehead. Medium to fine widths with a soft curve are ideal.

At MONLIS School, students practice applying these principles in real-life scenarios to create custom brow designs that complement each client’s individuality.

4. Professional Measurement Techniques in Brow Architecture

To achieve perfect symmetry and width, professional brow artists use several precision tools and mapping techniques:

• Brow compass or ruler: For exact proportional measurement.

• Thread mapping: Using a colored thread to mark key points.

• Brow paste sketching: To visualize the shape before styling.

These techniques are an essential part of MONLIS School’s practical training, where students learn to combine artistic intuition with mathematical precision.

5. The Role of Hair Density and Skin Type

The ideal width also depends on hair structure and skin condition:

• Thick brows: Should remain natural in width to avoid a heavy look.

• Thin or sparse brows: Can be visually balanced with tinting, henna, or lamination.

• Oily skin: Needs clearer, more defined lines since fine shapes can fade more quickly.

In MONLIS theory lessons, students learn how these factors influence the choice of width, color, and correction technique.

6. Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced professionals can make mistakes when determining brow width. The most common include:

• Over-plucking: Results in an unbalanced, unnatural expression.

• Asymmetry: Caused by misaligned reference points.

• Inconsistent thickness: Not adapted to the client’s natural density.

• Following trends instead of individuality: Every client requires a personalized shape.

At MONLIS School, students learn to analyze, prevent, and correct these mistakes — achieving clean, symmetrical, and lasting results.

7. The MONLIS School Approach to Professional Brow Training

MONLIS School Munich is renowned for its hands-on teaching method, combining theory, anatomy, and practice.
Students learn to:

• Analyze facial proportions and apply professional measurement methods.

• Highlight natural features instead of changing them.

• Use tools, pigments, and care products safely and effectively.

The goal is to train brow artists who combine technical precision with aesthetic sensitivity.

Determining the ideal eyebrow width is a cornerstone of professional brow architecture. It requires not only technical skills but also a trained eye for proportion and beauty.
At MONLIS School Munich, students learn how to apply this knowledge precisely and individually — focusing on harmony, naturalness, and professionalism.

For anyone wishing to master the art of brow architecture, MONLIS School offers the perfect environment to turn passion and precision into a true profession.