Nail Anatomy: Why Structure Determines the Manicure Technique

In professional nail care, one golden rule applies: not every technique suits every nail. The individual structure of the nail plays a crucial role in determining which method is most appropriate. At MONLIS School in Munich, one of Germany’s top institutions for manicure and pedicure training, this topic is thoroughly covered from the very beginning of the curriculum. Only those who truly understand the anatomy of the natural nail can deliver results that are long-lasting, safe, and aesthetically pleasing.

Why is nail structure so important?

The human nail is composed of several anatomical zones, each with a specific function:

• Nail matrix – the growth center where new cells form

• Nail bed – the skin under the nail plate

• Nail plate – the visible, hardened portion of the nail

• Cuticle – protects the matrix from infection

• Lunula – the crescent-shaped area at the base of the nail

Depending on the shape, thickness, elasticity, and overall condition of these parts, the manicure technique must be adjusted accordingly. Incorrect filing angles, excessive pressure, or unsuitable products can damage sensitive areas like the matrix, potentially causing deformities or long-term growth issues.

Common nail types and their impact on technique

1. Flat nails:
These require careful product application. Self-leveling gels and minimal pressure on the nail bed are ideal to prevent damage or detachment.

2. Curved nails (C-curve):
Allow for a more balanced structure. Even product distribution is essential to avoid tension and cracks.

3. Thin or flexible nails:
Need soft, elastic products like rubber base and gentle filing techniques. Reinforcement may be necessary to ensure durability.

4. Hard or thick nails:
Can be shaped with firmer gels or acrylics. Proper prep is key for strong adhesion.

5. Deep nail folds or short nail beds:
Require extra precision to avoid injury and visually elongate the nail.

How nail structure affects durability and nail health

Using the wrong technique for a specific nail type can lead to:

• Lifting and chipping

• Tension cracks or soreness

• Nail deformation due to incorrect structure

• Overloading the matrix, which may disturb nail growth

At MONLIS School, future nail technicians learn how to analyze each nail’s structure and condition, using both visual and tactile assessments. This knowledge forms the basis for selecting:

• The right materials (base coats, gels, acrylics, hybrids)

• Appropriate filing and building techniques

• Suitable shapes (almond, square, oval, etc.)

• Personalized care plans and client recommendations

Practical training at MONLIS

Training at MONLIS combines in-depth theoretical knowledge with hands-on practice. Using real models and real-life salon scenarios, students learn to identify various nail types and respond to them professionally. The focus is not on rigid routines but on tailored solutions for each client.

The right manicure technique doesn’t begin with a nail file or brush—it begins with a deep understanding of the nail itself. Only when nail anatomy and condition are properly assessed can professionals deliver long-lasting, healthy, and beautiful results. At MONLIS School in Munich, this essential knowledge is taught with precision and practical relevance—forming the foundation of top-tier modern nail care.